Apollo, Kings Cross

It was my mum's birthday the other day and given the choice between ramen or Greek, she chose Greek. Seriously, I swear I didn't say anything. So I took her down the notorious Darlinghurst Street down Kings Cross to a 'little' restaurant called Apollo. That place is real dodge buuuutt that's where all the hip restaurants are at.

Besides a souvalaki, I've never had Greek before. The Apollo has got a few big young guns running the show with the duo of Greek blooded ex-Longrain Sam Christie and former head chef of Manly Pavillion; Johnathan Barthelmess. As evidenced by the bare wooden tables and chairs, the exposed awnings, concrete walls; it's laid out bare with nothing to hide in an almost archaic design.

TARAMASALATA MULLET ROE DIP 12

We start with a little meze; the taramasalata dip. It's got a nice orangey hue going on from the sea mullet roe blend which gives it a really nice smokey saltiness. It goes down well with the pita breads but 6 slices just isn't enough for the generous amount of dip.

SAGANAKI CHEESE HONEY OREGANO 17

Opa! The saganaki comes highly recommended and arrives with a little spectacle; served on a board recently finished off in its pan. It's freggan amazing how many cheese qualities are imparted into it. It's got a really nice almost crunchy crust and right underneath it's all melted with the bottom an almost haloumi like consistency and bite. It's served with a tangy honey sauce but it's best shared, however, and had with pita bread as it is a tad overseasoned.

PIGS TAIL SALAD WALNUTS SORREL CURRANTS POMEGRANATE FARRO 18

Pigs tail tastes like pork crackling. A pork crackling salad you say? I don't even like pork but it seems lately that's it's so hard to not eat it. Sweet, salty, savoury, get in their quick as the perfectly balanced sauce tends to slowly slip it's way into the tail which makes it soggy. Cracking dish that's a must have.

HALF OVEN BAKED LAMB SHOULDER LEMON GREEK YOGHURT 38

Lamb is synonymous with Greek food so we had to at least get the shoulder. It's been roasted until the skin's all gnarly and dark, rendered down til the flesh becomes a butter soft joy. Sadly I was a little let down by the slow roast lamb shoulder as it was a little dry probably from being overcooked (can you overcook a slow roast?), the gamey flavour is a little lost but the oregano brings it back to life and it surprisingly wasn't as fatty as i'd have come to expect it to be. Slap on some refreshing tzatziki and a squeeze of lemon and the dryness is all but nearly forgotten.

FENNEL MINT AND PARSLEY SALAD 10

The proteins arrive by themselves so we're advised to order a side. We get a simple salad of mint, parsley and shaved aniseedy fennel and it really hits the spot in terms of freshness.

AVGOLEMONO PIE 14

Mum's birthday isn't complete without something sweet so we get her the sweet avgolemono pie. We love lemons so that seemed to be the right choice with it's wonderfully acidic curd perfumed with lemon, olive oil crumb and little puffs of torched meringue tips. Pretty much like a lemon meringue pie with... swag? I really can't believe I just used that word... did I really? I... I... I.......

Glancing around, you can't help but notice that some of the waiters are a little stoic but our waiter for the night was just brilliant; sharp and attentive yet jovial and laid back. Oregano, lemons, olive oil and honey make repeated appearances throughout the night but despite the familiarity, the food is well considered and alive with flavour. Culture first and spectacle second which isn't what you'd usually expect a bunch of Gen Yers but they do it with style and aplomb.


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Posted in: 1 hatter, crackling, Greek, lamb, lemon, oregano, Potts Point