Bridge Room, Circular Quay

21st birthdays always marks a special occasion. Not that we need one to eat out of course. Despite being knocked off the top 50 restaurants in the world, Sydney is never fails to remind us that it is a cauldron full of innovation just simmering away with deep complexity hidden beneath. At the surface of that innovation lies Bridge Room, well regarded as one of Sydney's premier restaurants with head chef Ross Lusted named Good Food Guide 2013s chef of the year.

Owned by the illustrious Fink group, who also own the famous Quay restaurant and Otto, you know you're in for a treat. Suits line the crowd but the space isn't stiff at all. The lines are clean, muted tones of brown paint the room with various tessellating shapes drawing the eye. It's nicely minimalist because you know the food has the be the highlight.

Natural Oysters, Thathra 4.5 ea 

The oysters, as expected, are wonderful. They're small, fresh and plump and have plenty of salty brine but it's the addition of the miso dressing that's a revelation here. More like a miso mayonnaise with a touch of ginger and sesame oil, it's actually the miso itself that boosts the umaminess of the oysters and it's just wonderful.

Raw wagyu shoulder, robata smoked enoki mushrooms 31
celtic sea salt, fresh wasabi, soft pickled chilli

Their raw wagyu shoulder seems almost like a signature here. Simply put, it's rich and fatty prosciutto-like ribbons of wagyu and buttery enoki mushrooms that almost send you into a coma but cleverly paired with a thrashing of pickled chilli and sharp piquancy of onions, it balances well and is bold in flavour.

Spanner crab, picked and shelled, white peach, 33
set verjuice, currants, peach tea 

I liked my dish almost as much; it's wonderfully fresh picked crab lived up with multiple elements of different sweet that create a harmonious song of flavours that serve to amplify the crab's own flavour.

Hapuka, leeks softened with wakame, blue shell mussels 45
mussel butter, crisp leek tops

I was suffering choice envy all day long and it didn't stop at main (and as you'll see dessert). The fish was ridiculously well cooked, flaking all over the place and perfectly juicy, tossed with a bit of wakame and topped with aerated leek crisps. How they turned a leek into that shape, I have no idea. The mussel butter brought it all together which kicks you right up the umami. Mop it right up with their generous servings of bread and you're in a happy place.

Robata grilled New England spring lamb 45
pressed black russian tomatoes, cooking juices, toasted sesame leaf

Lamb was admittedly a little tame. But only compared to the rest. I love a little fat but the lamb could be rendered down a tad more but thankfully it wasn't rubbery. Still... the accompanying tomatoes, wilted greens and and toasted sesame leaf didn't particularly wow either.

Dutch cream potatoes, pureed with Joseph olive oil 11

Pureed potatoes threaten to clog up the artery in all the good places but thankfully olive oil tastes almost as good as buttery and it's always healthier!

Comte custard, apple dried blue berries, pomegranate, miche 18

Our choice of comte custard is a nice deviation from our usual affair of cheese, fruit and crackers. Our spoons dart right into the luscious mound of comte custard; smooth and thick with a mild almost sweet flavour. It's actually almost a tad too sweet for a cheese course with the little pops of dried blueberry and pomegranate but thankfully a thin sliver of dried miche biscuit and extra shavings of comte remind us the cheese is the real hero here.

Chocolate chestnut mousse, "Campos" caramel 18
toffee, butterscotch, chocolate cannolon, raspberry

The mousse sends out a knockout of rich chocolatiness. With raspberries hidden underneath, thin delicate crisps of chocolate 'tenting' the top and a heady coffee caramel they've created a wonderfully decadent finish to the meal. 

Strawberry, violet meringue, barberries 18
raspberry ice, whipped yoghurt, blackberry paper

If strawberries and marshmallow meringue don't draw your eyes, I don't know what will. Styled up with towering elegance, it's pretty as a picture but tastes just as good by twisting up the usual berries and cream combo with a bit of textural virtuoso and deft finesse.  

The robata grill works magic here. An ancient Japanese technique, it's gradually made it's way around Sydney and it's showcased no better than at Bridge Room. Anything that touches it inherits the subtle smokiness and incredible flavour properties. Still, it would be nothing without the restaurant's deft touch and precise clean cooking. 

Posted in: 2 hatter, dessert, fine dining, modern australian, Wagyu