The October food month has had me flicking on a keen eye for good deals. Many restaurants have experienced that infamous rise in prices and uni budgets aren't exactly that great. Just missing out on Star Grazing at Star City by a couple of days, The Devonshire on Devonshire St comes out as a very appealing alternative on Thursday.
It's not exactly a difficult choice picking between A la carte or the degustation. 3 courses from the A la Carte will run you roughly $75 whereas the 8 course degustation is $80, undeniably one of the most cracking deals in the city. Well, besides a something from Mcdonalds of course, although it would hardly impress a fair lady. Factor how cheap that is on top a 20 per cent discount at Full Society (25 for me as an apology because they rescheduled me) the already impressively priced degustation becomes 64 dollars. Yes I had to double take too.
|Salt fish brandade with caper sauce|
|Bread with salted butter and house churned honey butter|
|Roasted and poached beetroots, balsamic mousseline, woodside goats curd, pine nuts and olives|
|Cured loin and tartare belly of king salmon, crisp quail egg, confit potato and broccolini|
|Spided pork rillettes, pickled belly, celeriac and apple remoulade, radish, sage and crackle|
|Fennel and bocconcini risotto cake with anise carrot puree and fennel salad|
|Pan seared sea mullet, avocado vicysoisse, roast garlic and brioche crust|
|Mayura Station braised Wagyu short rib, anchovy beignets and smoked pepper hollandaise|
|Banana mousse, coconut ice-cream and peanut praline|
|Selection of three cheeses with lavosh, fruit bread and quince paste 15|
|Red velvet cake, chocolate sorbet, malt ice-cream and cognac jelly|
|Devonshire tea creme brulee, scone ice-cream, cherry jam and whipped cream 15|
I'm going to be honest, the 2 dollar booking (normally 10) and the lure of the recent chef hat was what made me notice The Devonshire but I come out feeling it was much more than that. Full Society discount or not, The Devonshire has to be one of the most banging value for money deals around. So much so that the temptation arises to order more. Intentional? I think so.
While not particularly confounding and mind boggling, the food is done with such restraint, control and balance that each dish quietly mesmerises you in perfect harmony rather screaming out for attention. Service was quick and efficient and our waitress was incredibly charming. My only qualm is that the apéritif list is very limited and could do with a few more additions.
Headed under the very accomplished Jeremy Bentley, deft hands make what is a very memorable night. Well done indeed.
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